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Jonas
05-13-2008, 01:04 PM
I adopted Lucy about a year ago. She has been a great dog and is very sweet natured and loves people and children.
The only problem I have had with her is when she is approached by larger dogs. She goes into a state of fear and aggression and will growl and nip at the larger dog if they are too insistent on playing. I think these are warnings and they have never materialized into and actual fight.
But today this behavior led up to a bad situation at the local dog park.
I take Lucy to the park every day where she loves to swim in the lake after tennis balls. One common problem I have is that when the larger dogs see me toss the ball into the water they run in to get it and the smaller Lucy can't compete with their longer legs. Today this happened and when Lucy went to get her ball back from the larger dog she started nipping at him and the situation started to get bad so I picked Lucy up to get her away from the other dog. This is when things got bad, when I picked her up it sent her into a blind rage and she started biting at the other dog who was jumping up on me to get at Lucy (in a playful way) but Lucy was so mad she just started snapping at everything and ended up biting me twice in the face giving me a nice gash on my jaw line.
I think it is important to state that Lucy is very good with dogs her size and even our cat (they actually take naps in the same dog bed) but when she is around larger dogs she just lets fear get the better of her.
I'm looking for some good advice because I really don't want to give up the dog park. Thanks for any advice, Jimmy

skunkstripe
05-13-2008, 01:19 PM
Hi Jonas and welcome to the forum. Sorry to hear you had to go through that, that must have been startling to say the least!
It's always hard to say without being there to see what is happening, but from your description it sounds as though Lucy had a bad experience with a large dog before you got her. Either that or she was never good with larger dogs and it wasn't trained out of her at an early age.
I think for now it would be wise to avoid situations where she feels that other dogs are taking her toys away from her (like throwing her ball when another dog can more easily retrieve it).
Do you have any friends with good-natured big dogs that might be able to help her get over her animosity toward large dogs?

Monkey
05-13-2008, 01:23 PM
uj uj.. yeah you have issues at hand here..

First of all, no your right she is not aggressive, I would probably say do NOT touch her. When you touched her she either got reinforced and DARED to do a full fledge fight, or more likely she got scared cause she got restrained and couldn't use full body language with her warnings and fight instinct took over.

I would say that you need to take leashed walks with big dogs, this let her act out (just make sure the other dogs are calm dogs) so she gets to learn the body language with big dogs.

My Missy is the same way and she's a pitbull. When I first got Midnight in here (my rescue rottweiler 100 lbs) she was barky, nippy and just horrible. I had to have them both leashed indoors cause she made this VERY calm dog answer up.. But after a while when they got to study eachothers languages and bodies and got to know eachother it was fine. And for each dog you walk her with, walk for 1-2 hours so she really has chance to see them (no greeting no nothing, just let them walk closer and closer as she calms down) but no play take it in BABY steps.. the more dogs you do this with and make sure it is ALWAYS a positive experience by being calm and fun and have yummy treats she will behave better..

However around toys a lot of dogs goes worse cause they either 1. BElive they weill be attacked or 2. Has possession aggression.

I could probably also recomend basic obediance class just to get a chance to work with her under SAFE curcomstances til your issue has gone better.. Thank you for rescuing, its not always easy dealing with their bagage... Good luck and keep us posted.. Oh and welcome to the forum!!

agilityk9trainer
05-13-2008, 04:11 PM
I suggest finding a trainer who works with fear aggression and learn how to handle it with positive methods. Until you learn how to deal with it, I would not go to the dog park. Personally I'm not a fan of dog parks because of the high incidences of dog fights that occur there. My dogs never go.

Aussiepaws
05-13-2008, 05:17 PM
I agree with AglityK9 trainer about finding a trainer to help you work with your dog around larger dogs. Picking Lucy up only escalated the situation as you were now lifting her into a more dominant mode. I would probably no take her to a dog park until you've been able to work through her fear of larger dogs.

Jonas
05-13-2008, 08:11 PM
Thank you all for the advice.
I realize in hind site that picking up Lucy probably wasn't the smartest thing to do.
I think we will probably wait a while before heading back to the park while we get her issues sorted out. Thanks again!

JRT Lover
07-03-2008, 11:12 PM
Hi! What you describe is normal JRT action. You are lucky he gets along with your cat and children. I would NOT take him to the dog park except possibly during off times when there are less dogs and you have full control. That is one reason they are called big dog in a small body, they are fearless.

You should have been aware of this before you purchased your JRT

JRTCA Breed Standard


CharacteristicsThe terrier must present a lively, active and alert appearance. It should impress with its fearless and happy disposition. It should be remembered that the Jack Russell is a working terrier and should retain these instincts. Nervousness, cowardice or over-aggressiveness should be discouraged and it should always appear confident.http://www.therealjackrussell.com/image/standard/general.jpgGeneral AppearanceA sturdy, tough terrier, very much on its toes all the time, measuring between 10" and 15" at the withers. The body length must be in proportion to the height, and it should present a compact, balanced image, always being in solid, hard condition.HeadShould be well balanced and in proportion to the body. The skull should be flat, of moderate width at the ears, narrowing to the eyes. There should be a defined stop but not overpronounced. The length of the muzzle from the nose to the stop should be slightly shorter than the distance from the stop to the occiput. The nose should be black. The jaw should be powerful and well boned with strongly muscled cheeks.http://www.therealjackrussell.com/image/standard/head.jpgEyesShould be almond shaped, dark in color and full of life and intelligence. EarsSmall "V" shaped drop ears carried forward close to the head and of moderate thickness.MouthStrong teeth with the top slightly overlapping the lower.
http://www.therealjackrussell.com/image/standard/bite.gif
The left two bites are acceptable; the far left bite is preferred.NeckClean and muscular, of good length, gradually widening at the shoulders.http://www.therealjackrussell.com/image/standard/body.jpgForequartersThe shoulders should be sloping and well laid back, fine at points and clearly cut at the withers. Forelegs should be strong and straight boned with joints in correct alignment. Elbows hanging perpendicular to the body and working free of the sides. BodyThe chest should be shallow, narrow and the front legs not too widely apart, giving an athletic, rather than heavily chested appearance. As a guide only, the chest should be small enough to be easily spanned behind the shoulders, by average sized hands, when the terrier is in a fit, working condition. The back should be strong, straight and, in comparison to the height of the terrier, give a balanced image. The loin should be slightly arched. HindquartersShould be strong and muscular, well put together with good angulation and bend of stifle, giving plenty of drive and propulsion. Looking from behind, the hocks must be straight.http://www.therealjackrussell.com/image/standard/hindquarters.gifFeetRound, hard padded, wide, of cat-like appearance, neither turning in nor out. TailShould be set rather high, carried gaily and in proportion to body length, usually about four inches long, providing a good hand-hold.CoatSmooth, without being so sparse as not to provide a certain amount of protection from the elements and undergrowth. Rough or broken coated, without being woolly. http://www.therealjackrussell.com/image/standard/body2.jpgColorWhite should predominate (i.e., must be more than 51% white) with tan, black, or brown markings. Brindle markings are unacceptable.GaitMovement should be free, lively, well coordinated with straight action in front and behind. Special NotesOld scars or injuries, the result of work or accident, should not be allowed to prejudice a terrier's chance in the show ring unless they interfere with its movement or with its utility for work or stud.

A Jack Russell Terrier should not show any strong characteristics of another breed. FaultsShyness, Disinterest, Overly aggressive, Defects in bite, Weak jaws, Fleshy ears, Down at the shoulder, Barrel ribs, Out at elbow, Narrow hips, Straight stifles, Weak feet, Sluggish or unsound movement, Dishing, Plaiting, Toeing, Silky or woolly coats, Too much color (less than 51% white), Shrill or weak voice, Lack of muscle or skin tone, Lack of stamina or lung reserve, Evidence of foreign blood

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