I am a dog trainer if you need help ask.

[k8tymem8ty]

i am a pro dog trainer and i have trained over 700 dogs including dogs for the blind, disabled and also some police dogs and also alot of pet dogs so if any one needs help leave a post and i will awnser any of your questions. it dosent have to be about dog training it can be about anything to do with dogs.:D

[wlkwithwolf]

I have a question, our oldest dog is 13 and he started barking at everything in sight. How can i break him AGAIN form doing that.
We do have a neighbor across the street that intimidates them and thats where it started and progressed from there.
We are in a covenence so leaving them out all day is out of the question because its a $500 fine first offence for excessivly barking dogs.
I did get the lady to back off because i have her on tape intimidating them and egging them on. I told her if she keeps it up we will press charges (we talked to police and they gave us a list of stuff we can push charges on).
So anyway, hes an austrialian sheppard, barks at anything to a leaf blowing in the wind to someone actually walking by. Is there a way to stop him again from barking. He used to be a well mannered say quit and he quites dog.

[k8tymem8ty]

well first try making a wipeing movement with your hands and then saying quite in a soft quite voice and then if the dog is quite then give him a treat.
if this dosent work then try a water spray and spray him if he barks and if this dosent work you need to lay him on his side and hold him there until he is quite and still if this dosent work then fill a plastic bottle with small stones and when he barks throw it by the side of him and if he is quite then praise him. you need to try each technique for a few days some ways suit diffrent dogs better. so keep trying id nothing works get back to me.

[lassie]

hi i have 5 dogs and when i put my wellies on they know its time for a walk , but they will keep barking. 1 starts and they all feed off this. How can i stop this?

[k8tymem8ty]

well what you do is you put on your wellies if they bark then you take them off and go and sit down for 2 or 3 miniutes. and then try again keep doing this until they are quite and then taake them out. if this dosent work then try saying "no" when they bark and try taking out the ones which are quite and if none are quite then just walk out the door and wait for a miniute and then go back in and take out the quite ones if none of this works then contact me again. good luck and keep trying it takes some time.

[spotter]

i am a pro dog trainer and i have trained over 700 dogs including dogs for the blind, disabled and also some police dogs and also alot of pet dogs so if any one needs help leave a post and i will awnser any of your questions. it dosent have to be about dog training it can be about anything to do with dogs.:D


very kind of you:) have you ever trained dogs for epileptics, that alert when their owner is having a seizure?

[dlambertz]

we are very lucky for you to have found the forum. thanks for the offer and i am sure i will be plucking your brain before to long :)

[k8tymem8ty]

i have not personally trained a dog for epileptics but i have been to training courses where they teach you how to.

[lassie]

Many thanks will give it a go

[iluvmydog]

We have been having a lot of trouble with our Australian Shepherd, Shelty cross chasing veicles, we are very worried that one of these days he'll get hit. How could we cure him of this problem?

[k8tymem8ty]

We have been having a lot of trouble with our Australian Shepherd, Shelty cross chasing veicles, we are very worried that one of these days he'll get hit. How could we cure him of this problem?
what you need to do is go out around cars with a plastic bottle filled with little stones and then when he goes for a car say 'leave it' and then give a little tug on the lead then shake the bottle loudly and if he leaves it then make sure you praise him loads if not then keep doing it untill he does hope iit helps from katey

[iluvmydog]

We'll give it a try. But I'm not sure if it'll work because he only chases cars when he's off of a leash. He does get a little nervous when they pass by while he's on a leash though.

[nancy]

My Breagh was 6 months when I first got her and she would run down the wood alongside cars but a good peep on the dog whistle and a shout or two and she came back now she will sit when a car goes past but that has taken a long time of getting her to sit and stay when she was on the lead and waitting to cross the road we are getting there but it takes a lot of time and patience.

[iluvmydog]

Thanks for the help!:)

[Cheetah]

i am a pro dog trainer and i have trained over 700 dogs including dogs for the blind, disabled and also some police dogs and also alot of pet dogs so if any one needs help leave a post and i will awnser any of your questions. it dosent have to be about dog training it can be about anything to do with dogs.:D

Just curious... what are your credentials/certifications/experience? I always like to know these things before asking other questions lol...

[iluvmydog]

I have another question. When our dog does'nt do what I ask him to right away but he does do it eventually, should I praise him for finally doing it, or should I scold him for not doing it right away?

[ChessieLvr]

I have another question. When our dog does'nt do what I ask him to right away but he does do it eventually, should I praise him for finally doing it, or should I scold him for not doing it right away?


Praise her like there's no tomorrow, so that next time she'll want to do it more quickly.

[iluvmydog]

Ok thanks, but, would it still be a good idea to praise him when he comes after chasing cars? He might get the idea that we are praising him for chasing them.

[Cheetah]

Nope, he'll understand that the praise is for coming to you. If you punish him for chasing the cars after he returns to you, he'll think you're punishing him for coming to you, and he won't come to you. I wouldn't run to a person if I knew they were gonna yell at me. >^^;<

But he shouldn't be in a situation where he has a chance to chase cars. If he's not on a leash, he should be in a fenced area.

[k8tymem8ty]

Just curious... what are your credentials/certifications/experience? I always like to know these things before asking other questions lol...
i have been training for 20 years i am kennel club approved for the last 18 years and i went to collage and uni to become a dog trainer i hope that is what you need to know thanx for asking its best to know that you are talking too someone that you know has qualifications thanx katey

[iluvmydog]

Thank you everyone!:)

[kelsiebug]

i am a pro dog trainer and i have trained over 700 dogs including dogs for the blind, disabled and also some police dogs and also alot of pet dogs so if any one needs help leave a post and i will awnser any of your questions. it dosent have to be about dog training it can be about anything to do with dogs.:D
hi,
i have a problem with my dog. shes always running off and gettin into a mess with other dogs on my neighbor hood!!!! when i call her while i go 2 get her from down the road she runs from me!!!! she wont come home after she runs in to the woods! i need help!

[kelsiebug]

oh yes i didnt mintion when i let her out of the fence to play she runs off and she wont come home when i call her she runs and soon she comes home

[Cheetah]

You need to teach your dog to recall. Don't let your dog out of a fence without knowing how to come back to you. There are several ways to do this... I think one of the popular ones now is the "Really Reliable Recall" book/video, which I don't have the link to.... anyone have that link? >^^;<

[pittiegirl]

Just so happens I posted it in another thread earlier

Really Reliable Recall: http://www.dogwise.com/itemdetails.cfm?ID=DTB810

[zoe08]

hi,
i have a problem with my dog. shes always running off and gettin into a mess with other dogs on my neighbor hood!!!! when i call her while i go 2 get her from down the road she runs from me!!!! she wont come home after she runs in to the woods! i need help!

Do not let her off a leash when outside the fence. Especially not until she knows "come" and comes every time. By letting your dog out and telling her to come and not being able to make her come if she chooses not to you are letting your dog know that it is ok to not come when called. That is a bad thing. Your dog should know they have to come everytime you call.

Have you done any obedience training?

[kelsiebug]

Do not let her off a leash when outside the fence. Especially not until she knows "come" and comes every time. By letting your dog out and telling her to come and not being able to make her come if she chooses not to you are letting your dog know that it is ok to not come when called. That is a bad thing. Your dog should know they have to come everytime you call.

Have you done any obedience training?
hey no ive not done dog training but i train her on weekends when i have time. lady use to mind when her sisster still lived here with us. after we gave her sis away :( we had to re-train her, she wouldnt obey anything like she did b4.... her sis was the only one that new come well enough to be let out and when angel came so did lady and i praise them 4 that and lady got better but when angel was given away lady became very stubborn! is that one reason she want mind me? just curious!

[Cheetah]

Dogs need short training sessions each day to keep them refreshed, even if they already know the training. I work with Eevee twice a day, 10-15 minutes each time on her training, and she's 6 years old and fully Obedience trained (heck, I could leave the gate to the dog run open and walk away, and she would stay there inside the run, but it took time and lots of repetition to get her to act this way). It's always good to refresh a dog's memory, and exercise their brains.

Also, it could be that you might need a trainer to show you how to train your dog. It's always better to be able to see in real life how it's supposed to be done. Maybe a petsmart group class could help... maybe that clicker one. Be sure to check and make sure the trainer is experienced before you choose them though. Certified is even better.

[kelsiebug]

Dogs need short training sessions each day to keep them refreshed, even if they already know the training. I work with Eevee twice a day, 10-15 minutes each time on her training, and she's 6 years old and fully Obedience trained (heck, I could leave the gate to the dog run open and walk away, and she would stay there inside the run). It's always good to refresh a dog's memory, and exercise their brains.

Also, it could be that you might need a trainer to show you how to train your dog. It's always better to be able to see in real life how it's supposed to be done. Maybe a petsmart group class could help... maybe that clicker one. Be sure to check and make sure the trainer is experienced before you choose them though. Certified is even better.
i may train her 30 mins. if that long. shes one of those dogs who gets babied alot. im guilty. very guilty to give her what she wants sumtimes.she also has problems of goin in the road, our other dog has learnt but weve been trying to teach her 2 stay out of the road ever since weve had her.

[Cheetah]

Really you should keep training sessions short. Not more than 15 minutes apiece. Dogs can get tired after that. That's why I split my sessions, so I can train her a bit, then let her rest and play for the rest of the day, and then train some more later in the day.

And really, you should keep your dog fenced or on a leash if it hasn't learned to stay out of the road, or not to run off. Your dog could end up being killed if you're not careful. >O.o;<

[zoe08]

Really you should keep training sessions short. Not more than 15 minutes apiece. Dogs can get tired after that. That's why I split my sessions, so I can train her a bit, then let her rest and play for the rest of the day, and then train some more later in the day.

And really, you should keep your dog fenced or on a leash if it hasn't learned to stay out of the road, or not to run off. Your dog could end up being killed if you're not careful. >O.o;<

I second what she says. A good time to maybe train your dog is while you are watching TV. Work with her during a commercial, then let her play and then work with her during the commercial. You can do this during a 30 minute TV show or something.

But I would definitely keep her on the leash.

Although if you go to PetSmart, you should probably start in beginner class. The Clicker class @ PetSmart is called click-a-trick. They will teach you how to use a clicker in beginner and you can decide whether or not it is for you. But the click-a-trick class is more of a fun class to teach fun tricks more than obedience I think.

But yes I would make sure you start working with her everyday. What does she know right now? Maybe we could give you a list of commands to work on that she doesnt know. And if you cant attend the training classes just yet I am willing to tell you how my trainer taught me to train my dog. And I am sure other people can help by telling how they taught their dogs so you can find out what works best for you.

[kelsiebug]

I second what she says. A good time to maybe train your dog is while you are watching TV. Work with her during a commercial, then let her play and then work with her during the commercial. You can do this during a 30 minute TV show or something.

But I would definitely keep her on the leash.

Although if you go to PetSmart, you should probably start in beginner class. The Clicker class @ PetSmart is called click-a-trick. They will teach you how to use a clicker in beginner and you can decide whether or not it is for you. But the click-a-trick class is more of a fun class to teach fun tricks more than obedience I think.

But yes I would make sure you start working with her everyday. What does she know right now? Maybe we could give you a list of commands to work on that she doesnt know. And if you cant attend the training classes just yet I am willing to tell you how my trainer taught me to train my dog. And I am sure other people can help by telling how they taught their dogs so you can find out what works best for you.
my dog knows sit, stay and i have been trying to teach her to come when i call.well gtg my sis wants the computer!:mad: :D ttyl!!!!

[zoe08]

How are you teaching come?

[kelsiebug]

well,
when i call her and she comes i praise her.ALOT! then she keeps responding when i call her to me.when she begins to come right after i call her and she comes immediatly i give her bigger treats. is there anything im doin wrong? if so, tell me i want to do anything 4 my dog that is best.

[zoe08]

Do you use treats while training?

When you teach come are you training with a leash on? Are there times when you tell her come and she does not come? You should train this with a leash on so that when you tell her come if she does not you can make her come. The dog should never be allowed to get away with come in training. If they do they will think that sometimes they can get away with it. Like when they are outside of a fence and off leash.

How good is your dog at stay? Make sure that when you teach stay your release word is different from come. You should not teach stay and come together. It will confused the dog. When you release her from stay go back to her and say "OK" or your chosen release word. Make sure the dog gets up and stands before you treat so she knows she can move then.

Teaching Lay and Stand I think are good commands to know also. Leave it, and drop it are also important. Anything you need help training with let me know and I will be glad to share how my trainer taught me to do it.

After learning the need to know commands you can do
Shake, wave and high five....which are all similar teaching one is easy to get her to do the others.
Settle, or "bang" as we use which is like play dead.
roll over
bow

I am sure there are more that I am not think of though...

[kelsiebug]

Do you use treats while training?

When you teach come are you training with a leash on? Are there times when you tell her come and she does not come? You should train this with a leash on so that when you tell her come if she does not you can make her come. The dog should never be allowed to get away with come in training. If they do they will think that sometimes they can get away with it. Like when they are outside of a fence and off leash.

How good is your dog at stay? Make sure that when you teach stay your release word is different from come. You should not teach stay and come together. It will confused the dog. When you release her from stay go back to her and say "OK" or your chosen release word. Make sure the dog gets up and stands before you treat so she knows she can move then.

Teaching Lay and Stand I think are good commands to know also. Leave it, and drop it are also important. Anything you need help training with let me know and I will be glad to share how my trainer taught me to do it.

After learning the need to know commands you can do
Shake, wave and high five....which are all similar teaching one is easy to get her to do the others.
Settle, or "bang" as we use which is like play dead.
roll over
bow

I am sure there are more that I am not think of though...
oky. im goin in order.no.yes.okay will do that! shes not really good at stay.i have it to where i can say no, leave it alone! she will walk away from whatever it is. i will ask you a few questions if you dont mind.

[myprimarypurpose]

I met a lady at the groomer's yesterday, along with her German Short-Haired pointer who is turning 2. She has a problem with "Hunter". He doesn't want to come in the house. She has an invisible fence and doesn't have a problem with him staying outside, except she is not comfortable doing that when she leaves When she, or her husband, approaches him and try to get him to come in, he runs around the yard and they are unable to coax him in with anything....a toy, food or another dog. Other dogs in the neighborhood come to play with him, so I think he is always waiting for them. He also decides WHEN he wants to come in (this can be 2 in the morning, so they sleep on the couch so they can hear him scratch....looks like I know who the Alpha is in THAT family...) I suggested the internet for an answer, but she doesn't have the time, so I offered to try. Any suggestions I can pass on would be helpful. I don't know this breed, as I have two standard poodles, but I know I couldn't stand being controlled by my dogs.
Thank you in advance.

[Cheetah]

Well the first problem is that she is approaching him.. this can quickly be turned into a game of chase. The dog needs to learn a good recall, so that it will come inside when she calls it. She shouldn't have to make any moves toward the dog to get it to come.

[New Owner]

I'm having trouble potty training my puppy. He consistently pees inside and even though we scold him he continues to do it right in front of us. He also pees in his crate everyday. He is an 11 week old beagle/bichon mix. Any recommendations to improve his behavior?? Is this normal??

[Cheetah]

How big is the crate compared to the dog? How long is he crated? At what times before and after crating does he go out to potty?

[k8tymem8ty]

I'm having trouble potty training my puppy. He consistently pees inside and even though we scold him he continues to do it right in front of us. He also pees in his crate everyday. He is an 11 week old beagle/bichon mix. Any recommendations to improve his behavior?? Is this normal??
this is normal your boy is only a baby and what you need to do is make sure that he is put outside before he goes in his create and then as soon as he comes out and as often as you can put him outside and when he wee's outside praise him loads and if he wee's inside then tell him off and put him outside. try this if it dosent work get back to me
from katey

[lapdog]

Dont scold. You could be setting him up to be afraid to pee in front of you. He's going to have accidents, he's still a baby. Pick him up midpee and take him outside, and if he finishes praise him. If he already finished inside, take him in without any praise. Take the blankets and bedding out of the crate so he doesn't get used to the feeling of peeing on them. Wipe up all messes asap, preferably without the dog seeing you. (Have someone take him into another room.) Try not to communicate any frustration, only praise when he does it right.

Bring him out hourly. If he goes outside, give him lots of praise and l5 minutes of playtime indoors and then back in the crate.

Be very consistent and positive. I have heard that beagles can be a bit more difficult to housetrain, so he needs a good start.

[New Owner]

Thank you for the responses. The information is very helpful. I'm glad to hear our puppy's potty behavior is normal. This is our first dog so we are learning as we go!! I'll check back if he still isn't potty trained soon!! Thanks again!!!:)

His crate is small enough where he has a little room to move around. I take him out at 7am, again at 7:45, crate him, then take him out at 12:15, feed him, take him out again at 1:40, crate him and take him out again at 5:10pm. He'll usually only pee in his crate in the afternoon.

[SweetyChick]

I don't need my dogs trained but you sound like an excellent dog trainer!

[retriever crazy]

I have a golden named Lilly who has some dog issuses.Last summer we took her on a walk and two loose Akitas attcked her and bit her like 8 times. I wish I would have done sometihng like kicked them off of her or something but, I was in shock. Now Lilly gets very aggressive when loose dogs run up to her. And the town we like in has a big loose dog problem, and almost every time we walk her some dog runs up to her. I fell really bad but, I haven't been walking her much, just letting her play tied up in the back yard. We have been thinking about getting a muzzle or a head halti. If any one has any advise please let me know.

[Cheetah]

Head healters don't curb aggression at all, and if a dog lunges with one on, it can injure the dog's neck. I wouldn't recommend it for a dog with aggression problems.

[retriever crazy]

wow, I didn't know that, thanks

[k8tymem8ty]

I have a golden named Lilly who has some dog issuses.Last summer we took her on a walk and two loose Akitas attcked her and bit her like 8 times. I wish I would have done sometihng like kicked them off of her or something but, I was in shock. Now Lilly gets very aggressive when loose dogs run up to her. And the town we like in has a big loose dog problem, and almost every time we walk her some dog runs up to her. I fell really bad but, I haven't been walking her much, just letting her play tied up in the back yard. We have been thinking about getting a muzzle or a head halti. If any one has any advise please let me know.

you could use a muzzle if it makes you feel safer but this wont help the dog it will just stop it hurting outher dogs. what you need to do is get a plastic bottle and fill it with small stones and when your dog is aggressive you need to throw it right beside your dog so that it associates being aggressive with that scary noise
hope this helps
katey
xx

[Becky]

what you need to do is get a plastic bottle and fill it with small stones and when your dog is aggressive you need to throw it right beside your dog so that it associates being aggressive with that scary noise
hope this helps

The dog is more likely to associate the scary noise with the other dog and make matters worse (i.e. she's right, other dogs make bad things happen). A better idea would be to give her treats if she behaves well around another dog; therefore, you teach her that other dog = treat. Other dogs must be good. Using a basket muzzle during this period could be useful. I would try to work with qualified animal behavioralist, as well; he/she could prove to be really helpful in re-socializing your dog to other dogs in a controlled setting.

hth

[lassie]

. what you need to do is get a plastic bottle and fill it with small stones and when your dog is aggressive you need to throw it right beside your dog so that it associates being aggressive with that scary noise
hope this helps
katey
xx
I was told to use this method also when my dog kept barking.;)

[retriever crazy]

thank you everyone for your repleys.gives my alot to think about.

[Cheetah]

The "noisy can" method DOES work if it's used correctly. The noise correction has to be given at the EXACT right moment or it won't do any good. And don't shake the can. I've found that it will desensitize the dog to the sound if all you do is shake it. And don't abuse it. That shake can is for serious offenses ONLY, such as the aggression you mentioned.

I had to cure my dog of severe dog-aggression on the leash about 8 months ago. I used this method, along with mild leash corrections using a nylon and chain limited check collar (the non-choking kind).

First off, I started making her heel anytime we were on our way to our destination (the park, a neighbor's house, etc.). So I taught her to heel by my side and watch me. I praised her all along the way while she heeled. If another dog approached us on the way, the instant she'd look at it funny (lips pursed, raised hackles, tail erect, stiff body, any of these), I'd give a leash correction (nothing hard enough to jerk her neck, but to sound that chain on the check collar) with a low, gutteral "Ahhh..." sound. If she calmed down and looked at me and fell back in place beside me, she'd immediately start getting praise again.

If she DIDN'T start paying attention to me again, and continued to eye that dog funny (with the body languages I listed above), I'd throw the throw chain on the ground next to her, once again using the same low, gutteral "Ahhh..." sound. She never continued after that, and would fall back beside me, and start getting praise again.

This is the ONLY method that worked for her. I tried EVERYTHING else, even the positive-only stuff (in fact I tried positive first), but every dog is different, so they require different methods. I use positive-only for anything else I do, but I wasn't about to mess around with aggression.

Now, Eevee is great with dogs. If she DOES happen to look at one funny, I now only have to use the verbal correction, and everything is fine once again. >^_^<

[retriever crazy]

i do that too about watching the body launuge. shes fine unless a dog runs up to her, then im in trouble. shes getting alittle better lately. thanks for telling me that she can be fixed. that makes me feel alot better.when i get older i want to be a dog trainer. like go to one of those great schools in texas or new york.thank you again for all your help.Lilly is my best friend and i want to help her all i can.

[Becky]

The "noisy can" method DOES work if it's used correctly. The noise correction has to be given at the EXACT right moment or it won't do any good. And don't shake the can. I've found that it will desensitize the dog to the sound if all you do is shake it. And don't abuse it. That shake can is for serious offenses ONLY, such as the aggression you mentioned.

And then you have a dog who is going to always be fearful. The can, in this instance, IMO, is a misuse of the tool. This is fear aggression, and aversives shouldn't be used unless injury to someone is highly likely. The dog needs to be resocialized to other dogs; if not, it is unlikely she'll ever accept them. Any aversives are going to simply prove her right. Other dogs = bad things. Other dogs are bad.


I somehow, without any information, got my beserking 5 month old Malamute puppy who was terrified of all other dogs (run or snarl/snap/bite was her motto) into the dog loving animal she is today. I did it through socialization. I had to teach her that other dogs weren't bad, but good. I couldn't do that through the use of aversives.

If you can't afford to consult a behaviorist, perhaps you can get your hands on The Cautious Canine by Patricia McConnell. In the meantime, I don't think a basket muzzle is a completely bad idea.

[k8tymem8ty]

And then you have a dog who is going to always be fearful. The can, in this instance, IMO, is a misuse of the tool. This is fear aggression, and aversives shouldn't be used unless injury to someone is highly likely. The dog needs to be resocialized to other dogs; if not, it is unlikely she'll ever accept them. Any aversives are going to simply prove her right. Other dogs = bad things. Other dogs are bad.


I somehow, without any information, got my beserking 5 month old Malamute puppy who was terrified of all other dogs (run or snarl/snap/bite was her motto) into the dog loving animal she is today. I did it through socialization. I had to teach her that other dogs weren't bad, but good. I couldn't do that through the use of aversives.

If you can't afford to consult a behaviorist, perhaps you can get your hands on The Cautious Canine by Patricia McConnell. In the meantime, I don't think a basket muzzle is a completely bad idea.

i think you are totally wrong i have 9 dogs and 5 of them are rescue dogs and i have had many dogs in the past all the rescue dogs were aggressive toward people and dogs when they came to me and thanks to the stones and bottle techniqe my dogs have learned that dogs are to play with and now my dogs are happy and not aggressive with other dogs or people and they are certainly not afraid of other dogs. and muzzles are bad ideas they dont solve the problem they make it worse they just cover it up. maybe you should sort out some evidence to back up your awnsers. i have been a trainer for 20 years and have always used this technique so i know it makes a happy dog. please dont listen to this person who says it dosent work and please dont use muzzles.

[ChessieLvr]

There is absolutely nothing wrong with putting a muzzle on aggressive dog. A serious dog bite could cause you financial ruin and the loss of your dog.

I've never heard of the shake can used with aggression issues.

Look for dog-to-dog aggression classes in your area. Many qualified trainers offer them, and they are often quite helpful.

please dont listen to this person who says it dosent work and please dont use muzzles.

Also...this is a forum which many can offer different opinions and ideas. It is wrong to tell poster not to listen to one who offers advice, especially when the advice is sound.

[Cheetah]

Also...this is a forum which many can offer different opinions and ideas. It is wrong to tell poster not to listen to one who offers advice, especially when the advice is sound.

^ The above is a two-way street. There's nothing wrong with my advice either.

And then you have a dog who is going to always be fearful. The can, in this instance, IMO, is a misuse of the tool. This is fear aggression, and aversives shouldn't be used unless injury to someone is highly likely. The dog needs to be resocialized to other dogs; if not, it is unlikely she'll ever accept them. Any aversives are going to simply prove her right. Other dogs = bad things. Other dogs are bad.

I'm not sure if you were talking about my method of training, or just throwing the can down and letting that be it, but if you were talking about me training my dog, I can assure you that Eevee's problem was absolutely not fear-aggression. Of course you would have actually had to SEE her behavior to be able to diagnose the type of aggression instead of assume, but it's too late now. It's gone. She's no longer got this problem, and is not fearful at all after the fact. In fact. she looks forward to meeting and playing with new dogs.

When I talked about this training, I forgot to mention that she WAS allowed to greet other dogs after behaving herself. Her reward for not being aggressive was lots of praise, and the chance to play with a new dog. I did NOT train without big rewards at the end. Otherwise it would not have worked, and yes, she would have been scared of everything.

People seem to think that there is only ONE way to train a dog and that's not true. Every dog is different, just like people, and can require different methods of training. AND like I said, I tried the positive-only approach first. In Eevee's particular case, it just didn't work. I trained her to do everything else using positive reinforcement, but unfortunately, the aggression wasn't one.

So I guess I SHOULD say that it's best to try positive first, and if it doesn't work, try something different. If it DOES work, great! I'm happy for you.

[ChessieLvr]

^ The above is a two-way street. There's nothing wrong with my advice either.


Sorry, Cheetah...In no way did I mean to imply that your advice was wrong. I always welcome your posts, and I know that you "know your stuff".
I was trying to say that when anyone offers advice, it is pretty rude to come right out and say, "Don't listen to him". There are other ways to get your (collective) point across rather than insulting or belittling someone else.

[Becky]

No Cheetah, I'm talking about the OP's dog, not yours :); which, correct me if I am wrong, was attacked and now fears other dogs approaching her (and behaves aggressively to get the 'bad things' away)?

I do think the can has its place; just I don't think it's in this situation.

I just don't see how scaring a dog with a load, noisy can that is already afraid is going to help the situation. Like I said, the dog already thinks that other dogs mean bad news... scaring it with a can justifies the dog's belief.


K8ty, the muzzle is to protect other dogs during the socialization process, should something go wrong. Throwing a can and startling the dog treats the symptoms, not the problem. The problem is this dog is scared of other dogs, which is quite reasonable IMO, considering it was attacked by two other dogs. Solving the problem involves socialization the dog. Throwing a can does nothing for socialization, but could definately impede the process.

and muzzles are bad ideas they dont solve the problem they make it worse they just cover it up. maybe you should sort out some evidence to back up your awnsers.

Like I said, above, the can does more covering up than a muzzle. As for the evidence, it's pieced together from reading books by both Jean Donaldson and Patricia McConnell and spending numerous hours on a dog message board. I don't feel the need to validate myself any further.

[Cheetah]

I do agree that if the aggression is bad enough to be dangerous, I'd use a muzzle too, just to prevent a lawsuit and vet bills lmao...

[blueribbonuk]

hi i have a gsd that we rescued from a bad home he is frightened of all strangers although he is not aggressive towards them he does bark alot at them and wont go near them. i have been telling my guests when they come in to just ignore him and dont give eye contact. this is working as he now goes up to them when they have sat down he has a little sniff and lets them have a quick stroke but thats it.but if they go out of the room even if its only for a few seconds he starts the barking again until they sit down. am i doing right with him as it is very upsetting for me to see him like this as he is apart from this a good boy. i have had him since he was about 5 months old and he is narly 7 yr now.any help would be appreciated

[k8tymem8ty]

yes you are doing exactly the right thing what you need to do is when he lets people stroke him make sure you make a fuss of him and give him a treat and then he will start to associate not being scared of people with a great big fuss from you.
hope this helps
katey

[k8tymem8ty]

I do agree that if the aggression is bad enough to be dangerous, I'd use a muzzle too, just to prevent a lawsuit and vet bills lmao...
yes i agree with that but if it isnt that dangerous you need to clear up the cause before you just muzzle it

[blueribbonuk]

thanx very much, i do give lots of praise he is better than he was so progressing well.

[Cheetah]

yes i agree with that but if it isnt that dangerous you need to clear up the cause before you just muzzle it

I think when a muzzle was suggested, I believe it was suggested alongside training... just so the dog doesn't end up seriously injuring somebody during the training... >O.o;< I don't think anyone was suggesting to just throw a muzzle on the dog and leave it alone lol...

[Aurora]

Its very nice of you to do this. I have a problem with my dogs jumping up at people. I have ignored them when they do it and don't accknowledge them till they are calm and it has worked brillient they no longer jump at me or my partner but they still jump at everyone else. I have tried getting visitors to ignore them but it hasn't worked I have also tried putting them in another room until they have calmed down but as soon as they see someone they just go nuts again they are exactly the same if we take them out anywhere if anyone stops to stroke them they start jumping up. Is there anything else I can try as it often upsets visitors especially family as they are all timid of dogs anyway and being jumped all over by 2 large dogs can be quite upsetting for them.

For the record in case its of any use my dogs are 7 and 11 months old.

[k8tymem8ty]

Its very nice of you to do this. I have a problem with my dogs jumping up at people. I have ignored them when they do it and don't accknowledge them till they are calm and it has worked brillient they no longer jump at me or my partner but they still jump at everyone else. I have tried getting visitors to ignore them but it hasn't worked I have also tried putting them in another room until they have calmed down but as soon as they see someone they just go nuts again they are exactly the same if we take them out anywhere if anyone stops to stroke them they start jumping up. Is there anything else I can try as it often upsets visitors especially family as they are all timid of dogs anyway and being jumped all over by 2 large dogs can be quite upsetting for them.

For the record in case its of any use my dogs are 7 and 11 months old.

tell people to put their knee up when they jump up

[Becky]

Putting your knee up is a good way to hurt the dog. One miscalculation, and the dog actually gets kneed in the chest rather than just being blocked. And many people mistake "putting your knee up" with actually kneeing the dog.


I personally would teach the dog a good sit-stay or crate them/gate them off when visitors come.

This website might also prove extremely helpful:
http://www.thepetprofessor.com/articles/article.aspx?id=107

[SUE]

I Have A 6 Month Old Whippet Collie Cross She Keeps On Jumping At Everyone That Visits I Have Tried Being Firm And Telling Her To Get Down And Sit But She Does Not Listen And I Just Dont Know What To Do With Her Cos She Is Becoming A Real Live Wire Any Suggestions Would Be Great On How To Calm Her Down

[Cheetah]

My dog used to have a jumping problem. Saying "down" only gave her the idea that it was okay to jump up on people as long as she got down when the command was given. Putting my knee up has NEVER worked for any dog I ever tried it on. What can work is when they go to jump, kinda put your leg up and turn to the side. This takes away the dog's space to jump, and is a subtle way of telling the dog "don't do that".

For more hard-headed dogs, there is a harsher method (but still non-physical) that others may not like, but I have personally tried it on more stubborn dogs. A throw chain is involved. Basically, the dog recieves praise and positive attention for all four paws touching the ground, but as soon as it jumps up, stand your ground and let out a loud, gutteral "NO" or "AHH..." while dropping the throw chain on the ground next to him. The dog should startle, and immediately put himself back on the ground. At this point, you praise profusely/give treat/etc.

Personally, I'd try the mildest method first, and move up a notch according to whether the dog reacts correctly to the method. >^_~<

[Becky]

Sue,


The website I posted has a lot of varied, helpful ideas.

Also, how much excercise does your pup get? Collies are really high energy dogs, so your mix may have inherited the need to run and do work from her collie parent.

Maddi is also very stubborn and still jumps quite often. I originally, before I got interested in the behavioral aspect of why dogs do things, tried a lot of the things that you shouldn't do: I.E. knee, holding the dog up there, stepping on toes, etc. Not only does it not work, but they made her worse; a lot worse. I also, although admitidly not very hard, tried the sit, but my dog was too excited when I got home and wouldn't listen. So, when I started reading about using "dog language" to modify the behavior; I learned that if you lean toward the dog, even slightly, it sends a message to the dog to "back up." This does usually halt Maddi's jump, although not always. Also, keep moving, don't stop and stand in one spot and don't talk, or even look at the dog unless it is calm. Moving targets are a lot harder to hit than stationary ones and she may not even try to jump on you any more. When the dog has calmed down, then try asking for a sit, when she does, praise lavishly and kneel down to her eye level; after all, she just wanted to see your face anyway :). Soon, she will learn that being calm brings your face down to hers, but jumping gets her ignored.

HTH

[Aurora]

Thanks Becky that link was really good.

[gorea]

Help! We have a 5 & 1/2 month old Bichon/Mini Poodle mix puppy and was neutered about 3 weeks ago. Before the surgery, he was sleeping from 1030pm -6am in his crate in our bedroom w/o peeing, but recently (past 2 weeks straight) he has been having a peeing accident every nite and has been waking up very early, around 430am-5am and has peed by the time I take him out of his crate.
It is really frustrating b/c I feel like he is regressing a little and I am not able to sleep a full night without being worried that I have to clean up pee. Any suggestions on how I can stop the peeing in the crate and help him sleep through the night, at least til about 630am? This is our 1st puppy, so we are def. going thru growing pains right now.
Also, I would like him to sleep/hold it in his crate til about 615-630. But he seems to want to be up and have an accident around 530am. Any advice on how to get him to sleep longer?
Thanks.

[k8tymem8ty]

Help! We have a 5 & 1/2 month old Bichon/Mini Poodle mix puppy and was neutered about 3 weeks ago. Before the surgery, he was sleeping from 1030pm -6am in his crate in our bedroom w/o peeing, but recently (past 2 weeks straight) he has been having a peeing accident every nite and has been waking up very early, around 430am-5am and has peed by the time I take him out of his crate.
It is really frustrating b/c I feel like he is regressing a little and I am not able to sleep a full night without being worried that I have to clean up pee. Any suggestions on how I can stop the peeing in the crate and help him sleep through the night, at least til about 630am? This is our 1st puppy, so we are def. going thru growing pains right now.
Also, I would like him to sleep/hold it in his crate til about 615-630. But he seems to want to be up and have an accident around 530am. Any advice on how to get him to sleep longer?
Thanks.

dont worry it is sometimes normal for a pup to go back abit on potty training after it has been neuterd i would start from the beginning putting your dog out 1 or 2 times in the night and then slowly make it later and later that you let him out if this dosent get any better i would just pop him to the vet and just get the vet to check him out. but it sounds quite normal to me.
good luck
katey

[LizRN626]

k8tymem8ty

I have 3 year old German Shorthair that loves to dig when she is left alone how can i break her of this bad habit

[Cheetah]

Don't leave her alone in the yard. It's dangerous anyway... some random person could walk by and toss poison over your fence (it happens more than one might think) or any other random thing. >o.o<

[Phenom]

Hi, I have a ten week old alapaha blue blood bulldog, i was wondering if u had any tips on how to make it alert and protective to soomeone who is being hostile, or would it just come naturally,

[Becky]

Dogs generally will be protective of their owns if they feel there is a real threat. It is not, however, a good idea to teach a dog to "guard" in the sense of the attack-dog type thing. IMO, the dog should ultimately look for your guidance.


Why do you ask?

[livin4thelord8]

Hey everyone! I have a few questions. I'm starting a dog training service and was wondering what you charge to do training? How long do you do it for (one month?) With horses, we draw up a thirty day contract. Are contracts necessary when training dogs? Any more information you have would be greatly appreciated. Thanks and God bless!!!

[k8tymem8ty]

i charge £5 and i do a class on sundays and i also do out of class visits for £20 where i go to peoples homes if they want to be taught at home

[livin4thelord8]

Do you know what 5 pounds is in American money? Do you draw up a training contract? Thanks for the info and God bless!

[skunkstripe]

I looked up currency conversion and 5 pounds sterling is about $9.30.

[livin4thelord8]

Great! Thanks! I wonder if it's best to do a per diem type deal then for a certain number of days? Anyone have an idea?

[k8tymem8ty]

Great! Thanks! I wonder if it's best to do a per diem type deal then for a certain number of days? Anyone have an idea?

when i train a dog for like 2 or 3 days you have to draw up a contract but i charge them for the amount of days when i do that like £40 a day. but mostly i do classes where 5 or 6 people come with there dogs to a local hall near us and we train together in a class

hope this helpls
ask if you have any more questions
from katey

[ChessieLvr]

The classes which my dogs and many in my area have taken meet weekly for eight weeks. They are two hours long, and require daily "homework" during the week. They are $200, with a $25 dollar discount if the dog that is being enrolled is a rescue. The CGC test is given at the conclusion of the class.
Also offered are intermediate classes, advanced/competition classes and "growl" classes for dog aggressive dogs.
She does do private consultations at $70/hour.
A questionare about the personality and perceived problems of the dog is required before the class, as is full payment to hold a place in the class.

[Phenom]

i have a 9 week old alapaha bulldog, it kind of has the idea to go outside, but sometime i will go to put her outside, and she will do nothing, then come in and pee right away, what would you suggest on how to get my bulldog better trained, thank you

[Cheetah]

Crates work wonders for this. If the dog does nothing, you immediately carry her back inside (don't let the pup walk inside or she might pee), and put her in the crate for a little longer (most dogs don't want to soil in their dens). Then carry her out again. Sometimes after a lot of play, a puppy will want to do its business as well, so maybe you could play with her a bit outside, and then let her walk around. >^^;<

[Phenom]

and one more thing, my dog has had diarea since i got her,(5 days ago), i dunno y, but she is on de-worming medicine, would that cause it, if not, what would, thanks

[Cheetah]

Yes, deworming medicine can give the dog the runs... it should clear up after the dog is not being wormed.

[dizzy]

I posted a message in the new members section. I'm really in need of help with my lurcher. I am ending up getting so frustrated with him now that I'm doing all the things I thought i'd never do and i know it's not doing him any good. i can't get him to stop chewing stuff in the house, whether I'm around or not. And he has started biting the backs of all the smaller or softer dogs we meet. He has always run around with lots of dog friends quite happily until now. He goes for me too if I try to get him to do something he doesn't want to. Recently i have smacked him three times which I hate myself for, I stupidly listenend to other owners telling me I should be doing it to get him under control.
I have the DVD of the Dog Listener and this is how i really want to do it but i've messed it all up. He's my first dog and he's now 14 months. He's called Bailey.
Dizzy

[retriever crazy]

The classes which my dogs and many in my area have taken meet weekly for eight weeks. They are two hours long, and require daily "homework" during the week. They are $200, with a $25 dollar discount if the dog that is being enrolled is a rescue. The CGC test is given at the conclusion of the class.
Also offered are intermediate classes, advanced/competition classes and "growl" classes for dog aggressive dogs.
She does do private consultations at $70/hour.
A questionare about the personality and perceived problems of the dog is required before the class, as is full payment to hold a place in the class.


I do dog obediece,showmanship and agility in 4-H and it only cost $ 25.00 for the whole summer... we got really good trainers

[chaz_n_taz]

hiya hope you can help.
I have a 15 month male staffy, Taz, who is absolutely fantastic with people, kids & most dogs BUT he is very aggressive to small white fluffy dogs in particular. I also have a 10 year old black lab & they get on great. I walked Taz off the lead from a very early age but cannot do so now. I've started using a muzzle so he can have a good run off the lead but from reading threads on this site it seems it's a bad idea?
Any advice you can give would be great (I've read the Dog Listener which is full of good ideas and have tried putting these ideas into practise)

Karyn

[BadRoma1]

my dog jumps on me and rips my skin. i push him off, i tell him "No", i yell at him, but often he doesn't remember not to do it again.:mad: please, help

[lassie]

why yell????????

[BadRoma1]

because my skin hurts from him riping through it with his nails and i get mad that he refuses to stop doing it.

[nats]

hi....i have 2 dogs, fudge is 3 and midge is 5 months,iv been training her to go on wee mats and she does this ok, but she wont wee outside, she goes to the mat wen shes out and wants a wee, iv tried moving the mat outside but she just goes to the spot were the mat was and does a wee on the floor, i never had this problem with my older dog, she also wees on her bean bag which iv thrown away and bought a plastic bed with a blanket but she now wees in this, can you please give any advise. thanks

[Cheetah]

because my skin hurts from him riping through it with his nails and i get mad that he refuses to stop doing it.

Yelling is obviously not working. Also, when you push him off, he most likely thinks you're trying to play so he comes back for more.

If he does it again, try yelping REALLY loud. If his reaction is to jump back, and return and start licking you, it means he understood, and you can paise him for it. If he doesn't stop, yelp REALLY loudly again, stand up, and walk into another room and close the door (leaving him out of the room). Stay there for a couple minutes, and then come back out and continue on...

[kelsiebug]

when my dog jumps on me, i fall down and huddle over myself and act like im crying, then thats when lady gets all " whats wrong whats wrong??" shes jumping all around me stopping and laying her head on me. it works

[BadRoma1]

i hear then when you do that then you act like a puppy, but i want him to think of me as alfa.

[Ziggy]

OK, I'll need help. On June 28, my Border Collie and I will be going to our first show. Any tips on how I can get her to chill out, focus on me and LISTEN?

[Cheetah]

The way I mentioned is one of the most proven ways to teach bite inhibition. Something the dog should have learned as a puppy, but should still respond to now. The dog will not respect you any less if you teach it this way. Is the dog doing it when he's trying to play with you? If so, this is a good method. You don't want to make your dog afraid to play with you by forcing your dominance on him every which way. You'll only create a fearful dog that lacks confidence.

Now, if yelping doesn't work, you could try growling out a loud, gutteral "AHHH!" as sort of a correction, and if he stops biting you, praise him and go back to playing. If not, try what I mentioned above - get up and walk into another room, shutting the door behind you.

OK, I'll need help. On June 28, my Border Collie and I will be going to our first show. Any tips on how I can get her to chill out, focus on me and LISTEN?

When I first got my corgi pup he was a total spaz. Basically what I did to get him to calm the heck down was, grab a handful of treats, put them in my pocket, and start a small training session. I'd hold a treat out, and if he spazzed out and tried to jump all over me, I'd snatch the treat back and go "nope." He was confused the first couple times, but then he caught on and learned that if he went nuts, he didn't get anything. After the first few tries, he'd stand there or sit down and look at me while I held the treat. This is what I wanted, so he'd get the treat and I'd praise him. Repeat.

Now I'm not sure how your dog is freaking out. Is she jumping on you in excitement? Is she focusing on everything else BUT you? Is she running around instead of listening to your commands? Perhaps you should work on some training sessions with her in a place with a few distractions if that's where she doesn't listen to you.

['tasha]

We have a basenji who is convinced that everything is his. When we give out bones to all three of our dogs, he ignores the one meant for him and goes for the other two dogs' bones. He is much more aggressive about trying to get his brother's bone than his sister's. What can we do? Is this a struggle for alpha status?
Also, we can't seem to get him to keep his front feet off of tables and counters. Any suggestions for this?

[Dogbert]

I need help with my naughty lab x border collie pup (he is 9 weeks old).

Firstly he never sits still for one minute (apart from when he is sleeping). He can never play nicely, he acts like a loon and bites us really hard, jumps up, etc. If your face is close enough he will bite it too and pull my hair out if he gets the chance. I have tried several methods suggested on here, saying ouch, no, not pulling away, pushing him away, ignoring him, making funny noises to suprise him, giving him his toy to chew instead but nothing helps. When I give him his chew bone he seems to start chewing it but not for long, and he tries to bite me or my clothes while he is chewing his bone.

He is so active that it is almost impossible to do any training. He more or less knows sit now, and half knows his name and he is getting on very well with potty training (this after being with us a week). Am I expecting too much of him? He is just so naughty it is really getting me and OH down and is so frustrating we dont know what to do.

We will take him to training classes eventually, but it's still 2 weeks until his second jab so basically 3 weeks until we can take him for walks and training classes.

Please help!

[Kali's Mommy]

My Puppy whines when she is in her crate when we are not with her how do I get her to stop?
My puppy Tries to eat her leash how do I get her to stop?
Lastly How do I get her to stop biting?:eek:

[sheltieluver4]

Well im getting a new puppy soon {Basil}:D ... so excited about that......... but just if u could give me just basic tips, like the 1st night, potty training tips, just all the basic stuff u know plzzz:p

Glad u found the forum, thnx a buch


Cant wait 2 get Basil:D

[opokki]

We have a basenji who is convinced that everything is his. When we give out bones to all three of our dogs, he ignores the one meant for him and goes for the other two dogs' bones. He is much more aggressive about trying to get his brother's bone than his sister's. What can we do? Is this a struggle for alpha status?
Also, we can't seem to get him to keep his front feet off of tables and counters. Any suggestions for this?

Even though my dogs do not usually fight over bones or chews, Sebastian is very possesive so I always separate them when I give out chews. If chews are causing tension and leading to fights, keeping chews out of sight unless you separate them is your best bet.

As for the tables, you can make make these surfaces unpleasant. Place double sided sticky tape on the edges or anything else you think might deter him. Be creative.

[opokki]

I need help with my naughty lab x border collie pup (he is 9 weeks old).

Firstly he never sits still for one minute (apart from when he is sleeping). He can never play nicely, he acts like a loon and bites us really hard, jumps up, etc. If your face is close enough he will bite it too and pull my hair out if he gets the chance. I have tried several methods suggested on here, saying ouch, no, not pulling away, pushing him away, ignoring him, making funny noises to suprise him, giving him his toy to chew instead but nothing helps. When I give him his chew bone he seems to start chewing it but not for long, and he tries to bite me or my clothes while he is chewing his bone.

He is so active that it is almost impossible to do any training. He more or less knows sit now, and half knows his name and he is getting on very well with potty training (this after being with us a week). Am I expecting too much of him? He is just so naughty it is really getting me and OH down and is so frustrating we dont know what to do.

We will take him to training classes eventually, but it's still 2 weeks until his second jab so basically 3 weeks until we can take him for walks and training classes.

Please help!

I think you are expecting too much. He is still very much a baby at only 9wks of age. Both breeds are very active ones and labs are mouthy. For biting you, you can apply bitter apple or another taste deterant to your skin. In addition, you can give him short time-outs in a crate or in another area where you can safely leave him without toys or any other form of entertainment. You will be his only entertainment so that your leaving will matter to him. Be consistant and patient, teaching bite inhibition does not happen overnight and may take longer with some of the mouthier breeds.

Make sure he gets lots of exercise and mental stimulation. Filling a kong with his daily rations of kibble rather than putting it in a bowl about 3x daily will help him burn some energy. Remember....a tired puppy is a well behaved puppy.

[opokki]

My Puppy whines when she is in her crate when we are not with her how do I get her to stop?
My puppy Tries to eat her leash how do I get her to stop?
Lastly How do I get her to stop biting?:eek:

You must ignore the whining and it will eventually cease. Dogs abandon behaviors that do not work so be sure you are not unintentionally rewarding her whining by going to her while she is whining. Do not approach until she is quiet. In addition, crate her more frequently while you are present but only for short periods at a time. Have her settle down in her crate with a stuffed kong to keep her occupied. Use the kongs only for crate time, once she comes out of the crate the kong should be removed until the next time she goes in the crate.

For the leash problem, try a chain leash....dogs don't like to bite these. Bitter apple spray may or may not work on a regular leash but you could try that first if you wish.

Here is a wonderful article on teaching bite inhibition:
http://www.jersey.net/~mountaindog/berner1/bitestop.htm

[Dogbert]

Thanks for the advice. When he gets too much we have been putting him in the hallway, but with toys! And I have realised that he doesnt really care, because he just continues playing. So will try putting him out there on his own and see what happens.

We have also now worked in a routine which seemed to help. He goes outside on the hour, then he is in for 45 minutes, and then in his crate for 15 before going out again. It seems to help to calm him down. He also now sleeps in his crate every night, in our bedroom, and even though I take him out at 4.30am, I put him back in there and he goes back to sleep until 7.30am. He is a good baby really. :)

[Elfy]

I'm visiting my aunt for the rest of the summer. I had visited in the spring of '05, for six months, also. Yet she has a dog, Emma, who is starting to seriously scare me.

When I first met her, she immediately starting barking. And barking, and barking, and barking. The barking turned to growling, and then the teeth started being barred. She's never done this with anyone before, even people who've been here all day, and complete strangers. In spring of '05, she bit me when I was going to pet her, but my aunt said not to worry - it wasn't a serious bite.

I've tried everything I could find in any book to do. I've tried asserting my dominance, changing styles of clothes, perfume, wearing hats, etc, etc, etc. She won't let me squirt Emma with anything, and our last attempt just failed. What she's been doing lately is having me feed Emma, give her treats, and walk her. And whenever I get in the room, I'm supposed to stand in the same place and look assertive until she quits barking and walks away. So I stood, and she kept barking, but moved. So I followed her. Eventually, she quit barking, but staid there. My aunt said to pet her (which I have before without her biting), and she reached up to bite me. This time, her intent was not a nip, and if it weren't for me pulling away, I'm sure she would've gotten me.

It's impossible for me to avoid the dog, as she lives in the living room, which I must pass through to exit, or eat, yet I'm starting to get very fearful of this behavior, even though my aunt assures me she won't bite me - she's never bitten anyone else. What can I do to either change the dog's behavior, or make my aunt understand just how much I dislike this?

[iainminty]

i think your aunt instead of telling you what to do with your self around her dog, your aunt should think about her role as the dogs master, perhaps she should take control of the dog when he/she starts barking, its strange tho as not many dogs have that tendancy to carry on the way this one is going on, to me personaly as you say youve took her out for walks etc, i take it you havent done anything to harm her as a pup or frightened her in anyway, you come across as quite frightful on your post, i think you should get rid of that for a starters, then go on from there.

[BadRoma1]

the dog trainer hasn't been back for a long time now.:wtf:

[dantesmom]

Our 5 year old small poodle started biting everyone, including us, the vet, the groomer, etc. after a bad experience at a groomers. It is so bad now, that we can't even get a leash on him to walk him. We had to build an enclosure outside so that he can just walk out the door to go outside. The vet thinks he is diabetic, but giving him shots is out of the question. He has had several major surgeries since I got him as a puppy. He desperatly needs grooming, nails cut, etc. He also needs his shots. I don't know how I'll even get him to the vet. The last time we tried tranquilizers, they didn't put a dent in the aggressive biting. Any suggestions would be deeply appreciated. I am totally lost as to what I can do.
Thanks

[BREEZE]

Hi,I`ve got two dogs,1 x cocker spaniel 6yrs old who was from a rescue and is placid as can be.We recently purchased a enlish springer spaniel who is now 6mths old.Love them both to bits but alfie,the springer has two traits i cannot resolve.Pulling like hell on the lead and i`ve tried all ways to stop him the other is waking early in the mornings.Not that im a late riser but a lie in now and again wouldn`t go amiss.Any advice??most grateful:)

[Becky]

For the pulling, try this: http://www.clickersolutions.com/articles/2002/pulling.htm or a Gentle Leader (make sure you read the instructions on it!) or an Easy Walk Harness. You can also try what I did to get my pup to stop pulling, but you'll need to set aside a few days where you'll have time and not have a schedule to keep. The first thing you must realize is that every step you and him take while he's pulling like a fiend is rewarding that behavior and therefor enforcing it in his mind. To him, "If I keep pulling, we keep going." So, you need to devise a new stragedy that does not enforce this behavior. Mine was quite simply, although I used my gentle leader during the process because Maddi is strong enough that, in certain situations, she can/will continue to pull me. Anyway, what I did is stand still like a tree everytime Maddi's clasp went from a verticle to horizontal position (went compaired to the ground). I stood there for however long it took for her to let the leash slack again... as soon as it slacked I immediatly clicked my click and off we went again. In about three days I went from have the puller from hell and a pleasurable walking partner (although she still need reminders often enough). If you do go this route (or the one in the URL) you'll need to prime the clicker (which you should be able to buy for less than $3 at any pet supply store). You prime a clicker by randomly clicking through out the corse of a day and giving a reward. Many people believe the only reward during clicker training is food, however, you can and should use just about everything your dog enjoys... this may be a belly rub, a game of tug, a treat, or a game of chase... whatever motivates your dog is the best reward and should be used in situations where he needs the most motivation (such as during recall training). In the instance above, go forward on the walk is the reward... after all, that's what the dog wants at that moment... not a treat. So, it's the best motivation to stop pulling in that particular situation.

For the waking up, he's still a puppy and may need to go to the bathroom or he's just on a routine. Give him another 6-10 months and he'll probably grow out of it.

HTH

ETA: While you are teaching him loose leash walking, don't take him out for a walk unless you're willing to train... from this point forward, he cannot be rewarded for pulling.

[Georgia]

Thanks for the article Becky. The tone is a bit in your face but it has some good points. I should try the clicker and stopping method. I do have a walking route that is free from too many distractions so it should be possible to try. I worry that I am encouraging the behavior by letting it continue so I should try to stop it now.

FWIW, I have the Gentle Leader and stopped using it because Georgia wouldn't move an inch with it on. I went back to it 2 days ago and we had a FANTASTIC walk with no pulling. I tried it again yesterday and she refused to leave the house or move. I can't tell if it causes her pain or she's just being ... well a strong willed dog.

[Becky]

You're welcome :) . I do agree the article is a little forceful, but I think the concept is a great idea, especially with people who have spaces they can let their dog off lead to run to get exercise instead of walking. The only reason I didn't use that is because the only exercise Maddi gets is on a lead... whether its 4ft or 50ft.

Did you desensitize Georgia to the GL? You might want to work from the bottom to the top with it again so that she associates is with good things (such as have super duper yummy treat that she gets only when the GL is on). If she shuts down completely with it on, the Easy Walk harness might be a better route to take.

I also want to add to my previous post that, if Maddi went 5-10 minutes with no pulling at all, the gentle leader came off and I hooked the clasp to her flat collar. That was the GL doesn't necessarily become a crutch, but rather a tool.

[Georgia]

Somehow I messed up with the Gentle Leader. She fussed with it but I was able to get it on her. Then one day she gave me the "I'm dead" attitude with it. I'm not sure if I adjusted too tight (the instructions say it must be pretty tight) or if she got fed up. I had such a good walk 2 days ago I was hoping to use it again but she wouldn't even move yesterday. I may need to try the treats again but I have my doubts.

We also have the Easy Walk harness. One issue with Georgia is she has a weak esphogus that you only normally see with small dogs. This means we try to keep things away from her neck. The EW harness is good for that but she manages to pull with it too. In fact, I just had a bad walk with her last night with the EW. I could have it configured incorrectly too but it's hard to say.

During lunch I tried a quick test with rewards for being in the right position inside but Georgia didn't really get it. I think she's too big to do this in our house or our yard. Outside might be impossible since she tunes out almost everything then. Finding a spot where she pays attention to me could be a problem.

[Becky]

I hope you have luck with the GL. Start from the bottom with it and keep a positive attitude (go into it with the thought of succeeding).

With the pulling, you'll have to be very patient. The first day I started doing this with Maddi... what should have taken 5 minutes took us 1/2 hour (walk wise).

Good luck! :)

[iluvdogs]

how do i teach my dog to stay???

[cmkicksass]

http://www.dogforum.org/showthread.php?t=1526

please help me !!!!

[Susiewoo]

Hi there, I need some help and advice and I am hoping you might be able to help me.

Firstly let me tell you that my beautiful, adoreable, 13 week old Bolognese puppy Angel is an absolute delight and although we have only had her for approx 3 weeks now, we feel like she has been part of our family forever. She is very good and she is coming on brilliantly with her toilet training and we take her outside regularly and stand with her and she always does her business with no problems at all. We give loads of praise and treats when she does her business and we are extremely happy with her progress. Inside we have trainer pads by the door and she always does her wees on them if she is desperate to go before we have noticed she wants to go out and we make nothing of it if she has need to use it. We don't praise her or scold her, we just ignore her as suggested in all the puppy books and if we catch her in mid act we just gently put her outside and stay with her. However, although she is doing brilliantly when it comes to tiddling she is not so good at doing her number twos! She has started to do her number twos anywhere she fancies inside the house and does not attempt to go on the trainer pads or let us know she needs to go and we are not sure what we should be doing to encourage her to use the pads if she is desperate. Trouble is we are not seeing her doing it and we only find out when we come across her little pile of "accidents" and of course by that time it is too late to act. Please help as we are keen to do everything right to encourage and train her properly and although we understand it will take time and patience for her to get the message, I just want some advice on the best route to take.Is it usual for puppies to learn to wee outside and on paper easier than it is for them to learn to poo as well??? I ask this because all the puppy books seem to put the two together under the category of toilet training and none seem to seperate them as you would expect if it were a common problem. Any advice would be really appreciated and I look forward to reading your replies. By the way, she will not go to the toilet when she is out on her lead either but I have read this is quite normal for little puppies, so I am not too concerned about that and to be honest, I would rather she did it in her own back garden before she is taken out for a walk. Would rather clean up after her at home - than be carrying a bag of poo around with me lol!http://www.ukcampsite.co.uk/chatter/forum_images/smiley13.gif
Angel is so much fun to have around and she really is a chilled out little dog and we have had no problems with her at all. She doesn't like us to venture out of her sight too much though but the last week she seems to be becoming a little less clingy and I am hoping that as she gets more confident, she will become less upset when we go out the room.
I look forward to reading your replies.

[lauraloo77]

Hi my sausage dog is 3 years old and has recently started to regress and leave faeces and urine overnight. He has had no change in his routine and cannot understand his behaviour. It is only at night and have tried to tell him off when I have found the poo etc in the morning. This has not made any difference at all. I let him out last thing at night and always now try to praise hime whenever I see him weeing in the garden. I have also tried to take up his food and water in the early evening to make sure he doesn't eat and drink late at night which would make it harder for him to hold in. I am lost at what to try now and feel totally stuck, I feel like i've hit a brick wall. I dont want to come down every morning to a puddle etc and it is quite tiring to have to reprimand him every morning when I want to relax and enjoy breakfast etc. It would be wonderful to hear your thoughts on this situation???

[Becky]

First, reprimanding him long after he's done it will accomplish little except him associating poo on the floor and you being angry (this is why dogs often act "guilty" when they're just scared). You have to catch them in the act for it to even register, although, still it does little to help the situation.

First, since this is a sudden behavior, I would have him thoroughly checked over by the vet. An underlying illness may be causing the problem.

If that clears, you need to go back to house training 101. Limit his freedom. Put him in a crate at night or when you cannot watch him (i.e. shower, cooking dinner). If you're at work for longer than 6 hours, he should either be let out of the crate half way through for a potty break (some people come home on their lunch breaks). Another option is to gate him in the kitchen while you're away. Other times, tether him to you. Keep a close eye on him, and, if you see him acting like he's going to urinate or deficated in the hous, simply go "uh uh ahh" in a calm voice and take him outside. When he goes outside, throw a party! Have yummy treats ready or play a game outside.

HTH

[CamzKees]

That's what I would have suggested, too. Crate training has been so immensly helpful to me when house breaking my pup.

[jafer]

I have recently adopted a terrier from a rescue centre. He is nearly a year old and still is not house trained. We used all the same techniques we used on our other dog but he is still peeing in the house. He can go for two or three weeks without an accident and then he does it again - it can be just after he has been out for a walk! He has been very dominant with our other dog (who is very submissive) and we are working on that but the toilet training is really getting me down. Please help as we dont want to give up on him.

[Becky]

Go back to house training 101.

Also, you have to use an enzymatic cleaner like Petastic on the areas he's peed/pooed on... you can use a black light to find any areas. If you don't, he'll likely continue because it smells like an area he should go.


As for the dominance, as long as no injuries (or chance there of) are going on, you should let the dogs form their own pecking order below you.

[dawnofmoon]

Hi there, I hope you may be able to help me out here. I have two rotties, and not to long ago I also adopted a pund puppy (10 months) I did have 2 nice green leather couches, which now arent so nice as he has chewed holes on almost every corner, arm etc. He 1st only did this when we arent there so at 1st I thought anxiety so we did all recomendations on this (no big deal to leave, starting at 30 seconds and working up to hours etc.) Now he sometimes does and sometimes dosnt. I have noticed if I soak a towel in vinigar & put in holes he dosnt touch. Problem is I want new leather furniture and obviousley do not want to soak with vinegar> Is there something you could reccomend that is safe for leather so I can 1st break him of chewing on these & then carry over to new furniture? Any household items etc. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

[Becky]

IMO, I would crate train him and crate him because he's not trustworthy in the house. He's also a little young to have that much freedom (a lot of people seem to wait until they are 2 years old before they start giving house privledges). If you don't want to crate him, could you baby-gate him in a safe room?

[SheltieMom]

Hello, I appreciate any help that you can give me.. I have recently adopted a one year old male Shetland Sheepdog. He is a conformation dog who did not make it in the show ring, so his breeder adopted him out to our family as a pet. We have had him for two weeks now. He will only spend time in his crate/ex pen. I have kids, so I set up an ex pen in the living room for him so that he could get used to the activity level in our household! He supposedly spent some time in a kennel and some of his time in the house at the breeders, although I think he spent most of his time in a kennel, because he doesn't care to leave his crate/expen. I crate him in my bedroom at night ( I leave the door open, although he doesn't want to leave it). After my youngest goes to bed at night, I 'll open up the expen and he makes no attempt to come out! Should I take him out of the expen at night and shut it to encourage his socialization, or give it some more time? I don't want to force him if he is not ready, yet I would like him to come out and spend time with the family! He is a sweet boy, fully housebroken and walks well on a leash. I am just wondering about the correct way to socialize him... I have enrolled him a beginning obedience class starting at the end of August also.. I thought that may help bring him out of his shell! Thank you so much!

[dawnofmoon]

THe problem with that is I have tried in the hall bathroom. I can get him in for one day & then after that forget it! He knows whats up then and I know there is no way he will go into a crate. He was in Katrina which was last August and I didnt adopt until January so he had up until then spent all of his life abandoned or in a cage. He's fine in the yard, I would just like for him to one day break this action. I have noticed a lot of "stop chew" spray contains rosemary so I think I may make a concotion & try it on the old couches.

[ummmmmm......]

good evening, i need help, my dog only obeys when i have a prong leash, how can i get him to behave even if its just a normal leash. i don't want to have him on a prong leash all the time.

is there a proper way to use the prong leash. please help

[SuperOnyx]

My dog is 6 months old and from the beginning I litter trained her. She picked up extremely fast and I couldnt have been happier. The "problem" now is that she won't "go" outside. We can be outdoors for a long time and she'll hold it until she gets back indooors to her litterbox.
I want her to continue to use the litter box, but I also want her to know that it's okay to go outside (like if we're visiting with someone).
What do you think? :(

[teighlor_d]

I have a question about my young husky, Mugen he loves to chew on people, we tell him to stop and he will but when we go to pet him he tries again. I know it is from me raising him since he was 3 weeks (his momma was stolen) and me not breaking him of it then.

Also he likes to jump on people sometimes not a whole lot our smaller dogs do it worst, but how can I stop this (I've tried a bunch of methods)

[Becky]

good evening, i need help, my dog only obeys when i have a prong leash, how can i get him to behave even if its just a normal leash. i don't want to have him on a prong leash all the time.

is there a proper way to use the prong leash. please help

Try positive reinforcement and clicker training. Teach him that it's good and fun if he listens to you :).

Also, there is a right and wrong way to use a prong. The best option there would be to contact a well recommended trainer to show you how (you could start at http://www.ccpdt.com or http://www.adpt.com).

My dog is 6 months old and from the beginning I litter trained her. She picked up extremely fast and I couldnt have been happier. The "problem" now is that she won't "go" outside. We can be outdoors for a long time and she'll hold it until she gets back indooors to her litterbox.
I want her to continue to use the litter box, but I also want her to know that it's okay to go outside (like if we're visiting with someone).
What do you think?

I have no experience with this, so I'm just going to give the first thing that popped into my mind. Maybe you coud sprinkle some of this litter outside to encourage him more to go outside... throw a party if he does. Then you could slowly ween him off of the litter. You might also try to get him to urinate/deficate on command.

I have a question about my young husky, Mugen he loves to chew on people, we tell him to stop and he will but when we go to pet him he tries again. I know it is from me raising him since he was 3 weeks (his momma was stolen) and me not breaking him of it then.

Also he likes to jump on people sometimes not a whole lot our smaller dogs do it worst, but how can I stop this (I've tried a bunch of methods)

Bite Inhibition Training by Ian Dunbar: http://www.jersey.net/~mountaindog/berner1/bitestop.htm

For jumping, first, try to get him to do an incompatible behavior such as "sit" or "down" and praise and reward profusely when he complies. Also, ignore him until he calms down and understands that excitement will not get him what he wants (your attention).

Other things to try: if you see him start to jump, lean forward just a little bit. This often sends a message to dogs to back up. Also, remain calm, but try no to give him the opportunity to jump. walk around and make yourself a difficult target :)

HTH

[teighlor_d]

thank you I'll try that :D

[Yellow Dog]

My dog has and awfull problem with barking when she wants to come in. How do i discourage that?

[pete&sue]

i have a 6mth old border collie dog, whee haveing trouble training him to walk on the lead, he wont stop pulling which isnt to much of a problem now but my partner is very petit so it will be when he grows, also when iver a vehicle of any size comes by him he gets straight down on his belly and wthen tries to jump at it i assume to try hurding it!!so it takes a while to get anywhere when doing road work,also as soon as another dog aproaches he lies on his back i assume thats so as to show the other dog hes no threat, but wjheee most dogs will walk up to 1 and other and sniff each other he never gets that far,
can you offer any suggestions, i would take him to training but i work strange shifts so never get the same day off two weeks on the trot, any help u can give greatfull recieved,

thanks pete sue & jake:p

[Macgyver]

My Dog Sasha is pretty good at the commands I have given her in puppy Classes. In the Class "come" was ok with her. Since the class is now over she has absolutly no interest in listening to it anymore, Sit, Stay, Don;t touch, Shake Left, Shake Right, Lay down, Wait, she can do all of these in her sleep.

Ask her to come and she will look Giggle and run the oppisite direction. I am at a lose.

I think she just likes making fun of me when she gets out of the yard :-)

[shaggyskeeper]

:ohno-smiley: :confusedsmiley: :sadsmiley02: :worriedsmiley: My dogs name is Shaggy. She's a med-size black mutt. Her previous owners described her as a Border collie/McNab mix. She is approx. 4-5 years old and was abused by her first owner,causing her to be uneasy(sketchy) around all strangers. She is semi-protective of my family, and generally loves other dogs, but when she goes to play w/ random dogs being walked down the street, she looks mean.She's a smart,lovable,overly energetic sissy who also thinks she's a lapdog. Thats a short bio of her personality.The situation is that she and her partner in crime,{Squeak.a wild Jack Russel} like to run-a-muck up and down the street instigating "fence-fights" with the neighborhood dogs(Who are all secured properly in there own yards) She jumps our fence,when she's tied up she, A) Breaks her rope/chain/collar,B) Wraps her rope/chain around anything that she can reach, or C) She gets so tangled that she nearly strangles herself. I've tried tieing Squeak up when they go outside, but she still eventually finds her way to my neighbor's fence 2 houses down,where she "fencefights" w/ there AKC registered Mini-Aussie who recently had 8 puppies($$$) Between the mother fighting to get out,and Shaggy fighting to get in, the fence has been broke through several times allowing the neighbor dogs to get loose.(and resulting in the loss of a $700 dog.My neighbor kindly but sternly warned me then(6-'06) that he couldn't tolerate this behavior any more and would have to take legal action upon another incident.Since the warning, Squeak stays on a leash and Shaggy is kept under close watch,minimizing the problem.Then today Squeak got loose and 1st thing, the 2 of them went strait to that backyard. I saw them so I tried to coax them back quickly but Shaggy had already busted through the fence and appeared to go after the puppies. It only lasted about 3 seconds before she was ran out but my very-heated neighbor who charged over making threats to call animal control or even to use a pellet/BB gun the next time. I didnt argue, I accepted full blame and responsibility. Then she got even angrier when I corrected her about which dog had done it.She had accused my other dog{Roxie my extremely well behaved, smaller,black mutt} I simply let her know that it was not my dog, that it was Shaggy, and I proceeded to apologize.She continued with more threats and name calling. At that time, her Husband came over,sent her home,and continued the discussion in a calmer more civilized tone. I expressed my understanding of his situation and He did the same of mine. He also showed willingness to compromised becaused he was concerned for the possibility that I may have to get rid of my dog.I lucked out with a 2nd warning and absolutely have to find a permanent solution, in order to keep my friend. Having explained the situation, this is my question: What can I do to teach Shaggy to iether, A) Behave while tied up, or B) Stay home, even when provoked by other dogs. Know there is a way,because my other dog(Roxie) behaves as-if there's an invisible leash/fence, granted she does run to the property-line barking at pedestrians, she never crosses that invisible boundary. Anyone who has any tips please either post them or email me at-- ( Pm member for email )--{ Edited bt Doberman's }. I know she can behave. She was at the pound for a month about 1 1/2 years ago when we got her back, she was 100% leash trained. Unfortunately that wore of within 2 months. HHHHHHHHEEELLLLLLLLLLLLPPPPPPPPP!!!!!!!!!!! The sooner the better, if i dont do something right away Im gonna have to get rid of her.

[Becky]

First off, you need to keep your dogs leashed at ALL times. Second, please don't tie your dog up to a tree, esp unsupervised as this can often lead to unwanted aggression in some dogs.

Next, may I suggest that you put up a fence (at least 6' high) and don't leave your dogs outside unattended. If you can't watch them outside, bring them inside with you. If you have problems with house destruction/soiling, I suggest you crate train them (and house train). An alternative to fencing is to put up a run. Basically, you put up a cable between two objects (such as a tree-tree or tree-house) about 10' up, attach a 15-20ft line onto the cable with a clasp (such as the one on dog leashes) with another clasp on the other end and hook your dog to that. Again, do not leave them outside unattended.

I would sign up for a beginner obedience class for all of your dogs. Mistakes happen and things turn out better if you have a trained dog. Obedience classes aren't just for the dog, they are actually mainly used to improve the owner's handling/training skills. I personally would look for a positive reinforcement class. You can do a trainer search at http://www.ccpdt.com or http://www.adpt.com

Finally, I think you probably have some under-excersized dogs (jacks and border collies are SKY HIGH energy levels). They need to be able to run and have mental stimulation. An hour long hike or romp (you can do this with a long lead... 30-50ft... do NOT let these dogs off lead), IMO, is the bare minimum. Then I would work on training tricks with a clicker (you can learn more about clicker training at http://www.clickertraining.com or http://www.clickersolutions.com ... this is for a much needed mental stimulation. You can also give them frozen, stuffed kongs and raw marrow bones for more mental stimulation.

Finally, I recommend you read at least one of the following books (preferably both) : Culture Clash by Jean Donaldson or The Other End of the Leash by Patricia McConnell

The sooner the better, if i dont do something right away Im gonna have to get rid of her.

I'm sorry if this comes off as harsh... but if you get rid of her, you're punishing her for your mistakes.

HTH

[shaggyskeeper]

It is harsh, but i'm not offended. I must have forgotten to mention that I live w/ my grandparent-in-laws w/ my 2 young children. The Jack-russell is a wild dog that they rescued, and Shaggy is my husbands dog whom we also rescued. .My income is merely $364.00/month from welfare at this time. I can only afford to feed her and an occasional vet check-up at this time. And when it comes to exersize, I take all 3 dogs to my local dog-park several times a week, and the rest of my time is spent "energetically" between my 2 kids, and 2 dogs. Thanks for the "advise" though, you've made it clear that rescuing an abused animal is a mistake if you're poor. OBVIOUSLY, not everyone can afford trainers, I've done the runner, I tie-her up in plain areas(no-trees), and the thought of pinning a dog up in a crate is cruel, ESPECIALLY a breed such as a BORDER COLLIE.

[Becky]

It wasn't a mistake (I don't think I said that), but allowing your dog to run free, hurt other people's dogs, and put their lives in danger is a mistake. Trying to train her to simply stay put on your property will, at the very least, require a trainer and it's unlikely that will even succeed.

BTW, I've been poor. My parents used to log and we lived off food stamps and worked the hardest we've ever worked for almost nothing. We kept the dogs on runs because runs are far cheaper than fencing... priceless if they keep your dog and other people's dogs safe. A run is not the same as a tie-out. It allows your dog to run around. The cable is 30-50ft long plus the length and more freedom that the rope that attached the dog to the run gives.

The crate is not a 24/7 thing. Only while you cannot watch your dog and keep him/her safe. I think it's a fair option when looking at the others... i.e. giving up the dog where euthanasia is a very likely reality, getting hit by a car, or getting shot by a BB gun... not to mention that it's not unheard of that dogs are stolen for various dispicable reasons. Also, what happens if your neighbor decides to sue you and your family? Pay vet fees because your dogs are injuring his?

Again, I'm sorry if you're offended, but this is a management issue. If you can't do the run or the fence, then the dogs should be inside with you and only taken out on lead. It's for their safety, your safety, and the neighborhood's safety.

[AnimalHouse]

I agree completly with Becky. If you dont wanna crate, Put on a Run or Put up a fence, Then Maybe you need to rehome the doggie with someone that is able to Have the fence or somewhere for him to run. I have a LAbradoodle, which is A BUNDLE Of Energy, and I put her in a crate.. It isnt a bad thing.. I promise you that!

[jackie]

hi
i have two dogs, golden retriever, very well behaved off lead:D but charlie my rough collie in the last couple of weeks has started running off chasing other dogs, up until then was very well behaved and would stay with my other dog. he will not come on recall, and totally ignores me, he then gets to the dog he is chasing, and trys to jump on it.
do you think its his hormones?
i have now gone to putting him on a long lead, but feel he is not enjoying as much!
oh he is one this month.
many thanks
jackie

[AnimalHouse]

Jackie is he Neutered?

[jackie]

hi
soz,
no he is not neutered, i have thought about this option, do you think it will work? or will he come out of it. as he is only just 1?:rolleyes:

[AnimalHouse]

Well Neutering tends to calm dogs down, and if there is any Females in Heat, He will smell them,and search for them, so if he isnt on a leash..he will run.. to Find them... *Correct me if I am wrong on this one* But They tend to be a bit more territorial when Not Fixed. So YEs, I defently think it is a Option.

[jackie]

ok thanks for that
he is due at vets for his year check, so i will mention it.
once again
thanks
jackie

[Becky]

Yes, I agree, neutering him may very well help :) .

You also might be interested in the DVD (or much cheaper panflett) "Really Reliable Recall" by Leslie Nelson

[Cheetah]

Has anyone noticed that the person who started this thread has sortof.... vanished? lol

[Becky]

I think she just stopped posting. If you look in her profile, she logged on yesterday :rolleyes:

[PAK]

:wtf: We adopted 2 mini-schnauzers (3 yr-olds) and picked them up today-they have been crated or kenneled for the past couple of months.The male is doing pretty well in the potty dept, but the female hasn't done anything at all since we picked them up today at 4:30.How can I get her to go?They ahve both had lots of water and have had dinner. We have spent a lot of time with them outside in our fenced yard and took them to a park, thinking the deep grass would be an incentive.They are not leash-trained and are going to be a real challenge.They are sweet and we love them already, but we need some guidance here.We have only had dogs in the past that we got as small pups, so all the training was very fundamental. I don't know what to do with dogs this age who have had so little social contact or training. Please help! -

[k8tymem8ty]

sorry i havent posted for a while i have just been 2 busy but i keep checking back to look at post now and then but i havent have time to reply to any of u! i will try and make sure i awnser some of your questions.from katey

[k8tymem8ty]

first of all with the 2 doggys i would get them booked into your local dog training classes for some socialisation and basic training and then with the potty training i would just try to put them outside as often as possible and then put training pads down by the back door so that if they do wee atleast they mignt do it in there and then at night put them in a create with some training pads and hope for the best. but remember to let them out as much as possible from katey

[Cheetah]

I'm sorry but it's a very bad idea to put pee pads inside a crate. The whole point of crate training is to train the dog to eliminate OUTSIDE. It goes against the dog's natural instincts to be taught to soil inside its "den" which would be the crate.

[PAK]

:) Thanks for the input - The schnauzers did great their first night with us - slept together on a big doggy bed and slept until 4:30 a.m. - woke us up and wanted outside - both piddled - right after breakfast this a.m. I took them out and they both pooped. Hooray!! They are still afraid of the doggy door, but are getting better with it - I am just going to keep right with them and hopefully, they will feel more at home within another few days. They are much calmer now. I would like to put them in obedience classes but we are only home for 10 days and then back to the mountains for the remainder of the hot weather. We are pretty remote up there, so no classes are available. We do have lots of neighbors who walk their doggies every day, so maybe they will learn some from them, too.
Thanks again - PAK

[Poco&Chico]

I have a two year old male chihuahua named Chico who gets along with most females, but is absolutely terrified of males. He is aggressive towards them when they come near, and hides and barks constantly. After the men leave he is still very scared, and won't let anyone near him including myself. Do you have any advice?

Kali

[Becky]

I'm going to give you a book recommendation and I think it will help you IMMENSLEY in socializing your pup to men.

The Cautious Canine by Patricia McConnell

It shouldn't take long to read... it's maybe 20 pages long :)

For now, DO NOT force your dog into any situation that will terrify him. If you know you'll be having men around, you may want to lower his stress level by placing him in another room.

[k8tymem8ty]

does no body else want any help please reply this thread was getting good
from katey.

[zjzoggy]

Honestly...after reading through this thread...

It's better left dead. :D

Too much conflicting and/or bad advice, and lots and lots of conflict.

Katy, remember that there are many many ways to train a dog, and many of us have been around for quite a while. There are quite a few people on this board that have an amazing amount of knowledge to offer, and I look forward to hearing more from each of you.

Happy Trails.

[ChessieLvr]

Agreed!! Let the thread die already!

[weese]

Hello there please help me. I have a 5 month old cav. When we first got him at 12 weeks, he barked on and off throughout the night for about 2 days then on the third night he only woke the once and went off to sleep when i spoke to him softly via the baby monitor. Over the next weeks he had been sleeping through the night only waking once at bout 3 am barking and then when i let him out to the garden he would do his business come back in and go straight off to sleep again. But over the last week he has got worse. He goes to sleep fine without trouble but is waking 3, 4, times in the nite and barking and barking and barking until someone goes down to him. We have tired to agnore him so we arent rewarding his noisy behaviour but he can bark and squeal constantly for an hour and more which isnt good at 3 am for the neighbours, ourselves or him. Oh and not only does he do this barking then but he also barks and squeals if we go up stairs during the day and leave him doown stairs. But when we go out and leave him during the day in the house alone he doesnt make any noise just sleeps and plays with his toys. Please help as we are getting more and more tired and dont want to up set the neighbours.

[sheplovr]

Yes let it die I have seen this trainer on many boards to encourage people then he/she does not respond. Just let it go..........:mad:

[flower]

Hi new today:winksmiley:
Would like some advice about my 3 yr old black lab named Rocco.
We have had him from a puppy and i must admit he is a mummy's boy. He follows me around the house most of the time. Me and my boyfriend work full time and have always been impressed by Rocco's temperment in dealing with this. He used to chew carpets, shoes and anything really but we thought that was just puppy like behaviour. He has grown mostly out of that now.

My concern is we will shortly be moving and am worried about his exuberant barking, which can sometimes last on and off for an hour on return from work. Apparently he is fine during the day, it is just when we get back. It seems that he will remain waiting in the same spot for our return from home, and he loves to suck his blanket whilst we are away. Despite leaving toys out he will only play with them when we are home.

I am after any suggestions that might assist in the reduction of his barking when we get home. I am opposed to any aversive treatments such as collars which punish with high frequency or offensive smells.

Await your responses
Jodi:)